Dr. Kristina Shin's "Patternmaking for Underwear Design" is a foundational, industry-standard text utilizing a unique "Shin’s Method" that starts with underwire shapes for accurate drafting. While offering comprehensive, technical guidance on drafting various lingerie, bras, and loungewear, the 2nd edition focuses strictly on pattern creation with no sewing instructions. Read a detailed review of the book at Amazon.com Patternmaking for Underwear Design, by Kristina Shin PhD 03-Apr-2013 —
Unlike general patternmaking texts (Armstrong, Aldrich, etc.), Shin’s book focuses exclusively on —bras, panties, bodysuits, shapewear, and lingerie details. Published by Fairchild Books, it’s used in fashion programs that teach specialized lingerie construction.
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Once the basic blocks are perfected, Shin guides the designer through pattern manipulation. This is where creative design meets technical drafting. You will learn how to shift seam lines, add style lines, and design various cuts, including: Hipsters and cheeky cuts Control-panel shapewear Seamless and laser-cut styles Gusset variations for comfort and hygiene Key Technical Insights from the Book
The front leg curve is deeper to allow the thigh to move forward freely. The back leg curve is shallower to offer maximum coverage over the glutes. Shin’s techniques use specific geometric ratios to plot these curves smoothly. Step 4: Separate the Crotch Piece (The Gusset) Read a detailed review of the book at Amazon
The back straps responsible for 80% of a bra's support, requiring precise negative ease calculation. Key Technical Concepts and Formulae
Dr. Kristina Shin is a professor at Hongik University (Seoul) and a researcher in 3D body scanning and intimate apparel fit. Her background combines academic rigor with industry application—meaning her methods are tested, reproducible, and metric-friendly. Once the basic blocks are perfected, Shin guides
: An innovative flat patternmaking technique that uses two intermediate blocks, enabling novice designers to achieve commercial-quality fit.